Adam Handling at Caxton: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

Adam Handling did simple food perfectly on MasterChef. Now he’s at Caxton and things have got a lot more complicated

Adam Handling at Caxton, 2 Caxton Street, London SW1 (0800 652 1498). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £140

Adam Handling has talent. He has talent the way Ukip has nutters. Yup. He has that much talent. The first time I tried his food it wasn’t so much good cooking as a place of safety. He was a contestant on MasterChef: the Professionals. All around him, young cooks on the edge of a breakdown that might later require treatment with antipsychotics, their skin the colour of sweating veal, were “pushing the envelope”. They were expressing their passion and embarking on a journey.

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