Down and dirty Americana arrives off Piccadilly the only trouble is, they’re not very good at it
Avenue, 79 St James’s Street, London SW1 (020 7321 2111). Meal for two, including drinks and service, £150
St James’s Street off London’s Piccadilly is home to businesses selling absolutely nothing anybody could ever need. It is a place only of wants. There are shops selling bespoke shoes and hats, guns and fine wines, yachts and Havana cigars. It is now also home to a restaurant that not only does nobody need (for who actively needs a restaurant?), it is a restaurant I can’t quite imagine anybody really wanting.