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Bens Cornish Kitchen: restaurant review

Sharing a kitchen with your mother and brother might sound like hell but at Bens they love to keep it in the family

Marazion, Cornwall (01736 719200). Meal for two, including drinks and service, £70-£90

Bens Cornish Kitchen, by the sea in Marazion, close to Penzance, is a remarkable little restaurant. Not because the chefs crash through culinary boundaries, like boggle-eyed Catalans armed with a defibrillator and a dialysis machine, trying to re-engineer your lunch. The food is less showy and hence much more enjoyable than that. Whats remarkable is that its a proper family venture. Self-taught chef Ben Prior is joined in the kitchen by his younger brother Toby and their mum, Jane. Toby majors on desserts. She helps with prep and washing up. And thats it. Three members of the same family crammed in a small kitchen. Six days a week. Without killing each other.

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