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Blacklock: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

If you dither over making your menu choices, Blacklock is the place for you. It’s a chops-only restaurant…

24 Great Windmill Street, London W1. No booking. Meal for two with drinks and service: £70

In the midst of this restaurant boom how we choose what to eat has begun to shift upstream. We used to decide where to go based on vague criteria: did we like small-plate pan-Asian tapas-sharing concepts? (Did we ever?) Was it beard friendly? Could we find our way home from there while steaming drunk with a traffic cone on our head? Having chosen the location, we would then manage the business of picking off a big list of dishes. Did we want an effete thing done with white fish, or a hulking and testosterone-drenched plateful involving the back end of a pig or perhaps something smeared in miso and desperation?

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