Blanchette in Soho knows exactly what it’s doing and that includes not annoying Jay Rayner with a silly tasting menu
Blanchette, 9 D’Arblay Street, London W1 (020 7439 8100). Meal for two, including wine and service, £50-£80
I tried to keep with the project, really I did. I told myself it would be fine, that this was what I was paid to do. By the morning of the lunch, however, I knew I couldn’t live a lie any more. I didn’t want to eat at the place I had booked. I won’t name it. It wouldn’t be fair to diss a restaurant I never even visited. But I have to say that the whole proposition looked like as much fun as root-canal surgery without the anaesthetic. The booking process had been terrifying enough. They didn’t just demand an email address. They wanted a credit-card number, too. Why didn’t they go the whole hog and ask me to pop over so they could snap an electronic tag on my ankle?