Brassica, Beaminster, Dorset: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

Dorset reminds Jay Rayner of family holidays in the 70s, but Brassica gives him the chance to make some new memories

For seven years from 1970 my family went on holiday to a hotel overlooking Studland Bay in Dorset. As a result I’ve never quite managed to believe that the county actually exists, in the way Leicester or Bromsgrove plainly do. My memories, being those of a blissfully happy child, are presented in the excitable colours of postwar colour photography, drenched for good measure in honeyed sunshine. Given that we were there for the summers of both 1975 and 76, the latter is probably not overly imagined. Certainly it is impossible for that Dorset to coexist with the realities of me fighting my way on to the tube at Brixton.

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