Bubba Gump Shrimp Co: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

The Bubba Gump Shrimp Co was always going to be an easy target. So why did Jay decide to show it some mercy?

At the top of the stairs up to the Bubba Gump Shrimp Co by London’s Piccadilly is a sign. It reads: “Stupid is as stupid does”. Perhaps I should embrace this as a gift from the god of restaurant critics: here, my child, take this slogan that they have nailed to the wall for you and riff on it. Tempting though it is, I think dismissing an operation like this as stupid – even if stupid is part of its skill set – would be a waste of everybody’s time. Why bother going if it was simply to confirm a few prejudices?

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