Checchino dal 1887 in Rome is remarkable for two things: its history and its no-holds-barred offal specialities. Jay tucks in
Expediency can feed us well. Those restaurants that define what they do by what’s close at hand really can be some of the most satisfying: that place close by the docks, where the fish is landed by the door; the café by the mountain dairy where not serving cheese fondue would be idiotic. There really are few better places for oysters in Britain than the Company Shed on West Mersea in Essex. This has everything to do with the fact that the ramshackle outfit backs on to an oyster farm.