Dorchester Grill: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

Gaudy, snooty and outrageous… the Dorchester Grill proves that an excess of money doesn’t guarantee anything

Dorchester Hotel, Park Lane, London W1 (020 7317 6531). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £220

Of all the dirty food acts I have committed – that dribbling sausage I ate from the late-night cart in Leicester Square, a solo dinner at Frankie and Bennys’, a Greggs pasty which I quietly enjoyed – this feels like the very worst. I am going for dinner in an establishment I am meant to be boycotting. Recently the Sultan of Brunei introduced sharia law, including the stoning to death of homosexuals. As he owns the Dorchester Hotel, I should not be darkening its door. But I’ve always believed that the best way to deal with bigotry is to laugh in its face. And oh my, is there a lot to laugh at about the Dorchester. And it’s not just the women in the mink bomber jackets with the face lifts so tight the classic Brazilian risks becoming a Van Dyke moustache.

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