Fera: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

Simon Rogan’s cooking has found a new home at Claridge’s. But at these prices, you’re better going back to the original

Claridge’s, Brook Street, London W1 (020 7107 8888). Meal for two including drinks and service: £300

I can’t understand why people are making such a fuss about how tough it is to get a table at Simon Rogan‘s new restaurant, Fera, at Claridge’s. Yes, the hold music punctuated only by the filthy lie that a real human being will be with you shortly I gave up repeatedly without speaking to anyone with a pulse is trying. Likewise being offered a 10.45pm table sometime in 2017 by the online booking system can cause you to stab your hand with a pen. But that, I realised, was the wrong approach. All I needed to do was find a friend with enough dosh to bank with Coutts, which runs a killer concierge service and can get tables anywhere. Or someone who does a lot of business with Claridge’s. Which amounts to the same thing.

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