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German Gymnasium: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

It was a gym, but there’s little that’s German about this vast new restaurant. And the food’s a long way off a ‘perfect 10’

German Gymnasium, 1 King’s Boulevard, London N1 (020 7287 8000). Meal for two in the restaurant, including drinks and service: £130

You’d think, after all these years writing about restaurants, I’d be inured to its occasional stupidities, but I’m really not. The German Gymnasium, between London’s St Pancras and King’s Cross stations, is a case in point. I simply do not understand how the extraordinarily experienced company behind it, D&D London, can spend so many millions acquiring, converting and fitting out the building and yet be so utterly cack-handed when it comes to the food, which, relative to the build cost, is a small expense. The food also happens to be the whole point of the venture.

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