News

Brat at Climpson’s Arch, London: ‘I love the rackety, freestyle vibe’: restaurant review

Our first night out of lockdown captivity, and it’s swoon-worthy small plates in HackneyBrat at Climpson’s Arch, 374 Helmsley Place, Hackney, London E8 3SB (bratrestaurant.com). Small plates £6.50-£16, Big plates £22-£30, Sharing dishes £55-£135, Desserts £5-£7, Wine From £25 a bottleIt felt like the punchline to a dark British joke. On the day we were finally allowed to gather around an outside restaurant table, we awoke to find it was snowing. That TS Eliot knew a thing or two; April really can be the cruellest month. Still, where dogged fun is concerned, we are a stubborn if ludicrous breed. Just ask anyone who has ever sat on a British beach in a howling gale, with bare, vein-mottled thighs like corned beef, pretending it’s summer. We regard it as character forming. Anyhow, I had a plan to mitigate the chill. The outdoor rules demand that whatever form of cover is in place, at least 50% of the sides must be open to the elements. The solution for these early, tentative steps was to go somewhere that barely had to adapt to comply with the rules. Continue reading…