Jinjuu: restaurant review

When Jay Rayner went to review Jinjuu, he expected fried chicken – what he got was an avalanche of lawyers’ letters

15 Kingly Street, London W1 (020 8181 8887). Meal for two, including drinks and service, £110

A damp winter’s night in January, and waiting for me by the door as I leave Jinjuu, a new glossy Korean restaurant behind London’s Regent Street, is the chef. Oh God. The night’s been tiresome enough as it is. And now this? There are good reasons why the chefs of restaurants I review don’t generally hang around waiting to shake my hand as I leave. Mostly it’s to do with all of us being terribly British and awkward. What if I hated the place? Am I supposed to grin at them like someone’s attached electrodes to my cheek muscles? Then again Judy Joo, a TV celebrity chef, is Korean-American. All this British-awkwardness stuff is probably lost on her. We mumble at each other, shake hands, and I leave.

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