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Lands End at Sunborn: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

Aboard the Lands End, Jay finds little to save his dinner from being a total washout. Still, the view was good…

Royal Victoria Dock, London E16 (020 3714 8111). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £140

In naming this week’s restaurant Lands End, the operators of Sunborn London, the superyacht hotel which houses it, were almost right. It is indeed the end, though not of land. It is the end of hope, of good taste, of ingredients which deserved so much better. Generally, bad places have a redeeming feature or two: a dish that passed muster, a sauce that made sense. The meal served aboard the Sunborn was remarkable for having not a single one. That old gag about stopping for chips on the way home? It is no longer a gag. That’s exactly what I did. There was a burger, too. I was hungry.

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