Le Canut et les Gones: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

Modelled on a classic working-class eatery, Le Canut et les Gones stands out in a city that takes food seriously

29 rue de Belfort, Lyon (00 33 4 78 29 17 23). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £75

Come May, when Eurostar starts its direct service to Lyon (and southern points beyond), trains will depart London’s St Pancras full of people who have missed breakfast. Anybody who has built a trip around eating opportunities will recognise the strategy: the way appetite needs to be protected, like a sprinter’s calf muscles before the race; the intense planning of the light lunch to enable the ludicrous dinner; the fantasising over a local dish prepared to its very best advantage in a manner that makes your palms sweaty with anticipation.

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