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Le Chabanais: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

Le Chabanais is named after an old Parisian brothel, but Jay struggles to get any satisfaction

How much per square metre does it cost to clad a room in tarnished brass? Nail that figure and you could put a hard numerical value on what’s wrong with Le Chabanais. Because something has gone very wrong. Not with the food, which is interesting, if rather less interesting than it thinks it is. But in the very notion of this restaurant, here on Mount Street off Mayfair’s Berkeley Square.

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