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Le Coq: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

The promise of really great roast chicken lures Jay to a new rotisserie. But will their version be as good as his own?

292-294 St Paul’s Road, London N1 (020 7359 5055). Meal for two, with drinks and service, £80

Step for a moment into my bedroom. Don’t worry. It’s safe. I merely want you to consider my bedside table and, in particular, the small square digital clock which sits upon it, pulsing out the time in diodes the colour of cheap jade. It’s not much, but on paper it does the job. It’s compact, and easily programmable. It is set to wake us at some ungodly hour every school morning, to the soothing tones of Today on Radio 4. Well of course it is.

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