There’s all manner of unrelated food on offer at Mr Cooper’s, and eating there feels like playing ‘ingredient bingo’
Midland Hotel, Peter Street, Manchester (0161 932 4128). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £110
At the bottom of the menu at Mr Cooper’s House & Garden, which is neither a house nor a garden but a hotel restaurant in Manchester, it says : “Stay true to your roots.” In the context of a restaurant named after the renowned 19th-century garden that once occupied the same site, this makes sense. Plants have roots and so, I suppose, should good cooking. And if you have roots, perhaps you should stay true to them.