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Old Salty’s: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

The Glaswegian fish supper is a timeless classic. And Old Salty’s shows why it’ll be with us for years to come

1126 Argyle Street, Glasgow (0141 357 5677). Meal for two, including wine and service: £35

Old Salty’s in Glasgow, which opened last autumn, is not old. Its heavy-browed, dun-coloured stone building in the Finnieston district is definitely old, but it’s amazing what a good scrub and buff will do to brickwork like that. There are old masters on the walls, but they are reproductions, the pasty-faced subjects glowering through digitised gravy-browning varnish; the typography on the window has a cheery retro feel, especially on the word “traditional” before the words “chippy & café”, but it has an uncommon gloss to it. Inside, there is a proper chippy’s stainless steel holding cabinet and the air hangs heavy with the smell of the kind of boiling fat that makes the brain shout “So wrong!” and “So right!” simultaneously. And yet the menu also offers skewers of grilled tiger prawns with lemon and chilli.

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