News

Opso: Restaurant review | Jay Rayner

Is it possible to have a great, upmarket Greek restaurant? If the food at Opso in London is anything to go by, apparently not…

10 Paddington Street, London W1 (020 7487 5088). Meal for two, including wine, £120

Modern cookbooks are the harlots of the bookshelves. They’re all “Come hither” and “Go on, you know you want to.” Recently I was flicking through the pages of the just-published Islands of Greece by Rebecca Seal, with glorious photographs by Steven Joyce, and realised my heart was fluttering. This wasn’t just hunger or appetite, but a particular type of longing, of desire. Here are recipes for tiny cheese pies with honey from a little village on Crete; for shamelessly vivid tomato fritters from Santorini, and whole bream fried in garlic sauce from Rhodes. Here is a beguiling set of dishes based on only one or two striking flavours. It’s not just the food, of course. It’s the shots of sun-dappled sea and blue-and-white houses and beaches of a sort I know I will not see for another year. It’s a fabulous book you want to have a relationship with.

Continue reading…