It’s supposed to represent the future of the pub, but Percy & Founders is heading down an evolutionary dead end
1 Pearson Square, London W1 (020 3761 0200). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £110
With some restaurants you have to ask the most basic questions. You have to ask why. Why did they bother? Why did they invest all this money? What, exactly, were they thinking? Percy & Founders, located in a new development at the top of Berners Street in London’s Fitzrovia, is just such a restaurant. The food isn’t actively unpleasant, or at least most of it isn’t. The staff seem nice enough, in the way of professionals who have worked in restaurants before. The chairs won’t give you splinters. It all functions, much as I imagine Swindon Borough Council functions. Sometimes that is not enough.