If you like classic French food at fair prices – and Jay really does – then Piquet is a place you’ll want to visit
Piquet, 92-94 Newman Street, London W1 (020 3826 4500). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £110
I have long said that Tolstoy’s maxim, in the opening lines of Anna Karenina, that “Happy families are all alike” and “Every unhappy family is unhappy in its own way” can be applied equally to restaurants. All good ones are good in the same way: they have tables and chairs and food we want to eat and nice staff. The bad ones all find unique ways in which to be awful.