With its remarkable building and great location, it’s hard to worry about the food on your plate at Camp and Furnace
67 Greenland Street, Liverpool (0151 708 2890). Meal for two, with drinks and service, £65
Camp and Furnace sounds like the name of a sweaty gay bar in Helsinki; the sort a Lib Dem front-bench spokesman might visit during their downtime on a “fact-finding” mission. In truth, it is a collection of warehouses in Liverpool, a few blocks up from the old docks and the banks of the Mersey beyond. The rest of the description cannot so quickly be dismissed. Not because it really is a sweaty gay bar, but because it has the potential to be almost anything you (and it) might want it to be. It is one of the more intriguing venues I have eaten at in a very long while; an encouraging example of what can happen when an industrial but cared-for past meets a vibrant cosmopolitan present. Is Camp and Furnace a restaurant? In the sense that you can eat there, yes. Beyond that, it all gets very complicated.