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Restaurant review: Kurobuta

Kurobuta serves insanely delicious Japanese delicacies at prices that make you want to sit down and cry

17-20 Kendal Street, London W2 (020 3475 4158). Meal for two, with drinks and service, £140

Its unavoidable. Even those of us who regard ourselves as glossy sophisticates, as people with a laser-guided precision understanding of the diversity of the worlds kitchens, do it. We have a tiny, confined image of each major cooking tradition. Spain is where you go for sliced bits of pig, with fat the colour of antique white piano keys. Italy is for big bowls of pasta. France is for anything involving butter. Ukraine has dishes called things like Grandmothers Golubzi, which sound like an infection requiring ointment. Middle America is where you go for type 2 diabetes.

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