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Rotorino: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

Stevie Parle, this papers young chef of the year in 2010, has a lot to live up to at his new place. Does he manage it?

434 Kingsland Road, London E8 (020 7249 9081). Meal for two, including drinks and service, £100

Rotorino is Stevie Parles difficult second album. Its the moment when the beguiling thrust and parry of brilliant young talent is called upon to prove itself. In effect this means that in opening this, his second restaurant, he is competing with himself or, to be more exact, competing with the garlands and laurels thrust upon him by the media including this newspaper. We named him young chef of the year back in 2010. Having given him an award he didnt seek, I am now asking him to live up to it. Which he doesnt, not quite. Thats bloody unfair, though not unreasonable: Rotorino is being marketed on Parles name.

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