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Sackville’s: restaurant review

Silly truffle dishes and overpriced beef dominate the menu here – and the puddings are just unpleasant. Avoid

Sackville’s, 8a Sackville Street, London W1. (020 7734 3623). Meal for two, including wine, £160

It probably makes most sense to think of Sackville’s less as a restaurant and more as a historical curio. Because God knows you’re not going to want to eat there. In a couple of centuries’ time researchers will look back at the last remaining fragments of this obscure restaurant – a curling, tattered scrap of menu, an ingredients ordering form full of dizzying figures – and hold it up as conclusive proof that, in the early years of the 21st century, the capital’s restaurateurs had finally reached Peak Stupid.

I began to notice something: fresh truffles don’t taste of much or, to be honest, anything at all

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