Suchef: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

Suchef champions trendy, nutritional sous-vide, vacuum-packed cooking. The problem is, the food isnt very nice

5 Deans Court, London EC4 (020 7332 0858). Meal for two £20

A weekday lunchtime and Im alone at the counter in the window of a new healthy fast-food concept. Oh sure, theres always a queue of volunteers to join me for the hip dirty Italian in Hackney, or the hyper-delicious Japanese in Bayswater. But when new formats that could be coming to a high street near you very soon need checking out, not so much. Mind you, Im grateful. I survey the quarter-eaten cardboard pots of stuff on a tray in front of me, which constitutes most of the hot menu at Suchef, and give thanks nobody wanted to join me. Id have spent most of the meal apologising for wasting their time.

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