Suvlaki: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

On a visit to Suvlaki to show solidarity with the Greeks, Jay finds fine street food – and a dent in his wallet

21 Bateman Street, London, W1 (020 7287 6638). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £70

So very much is expected of the modern restaurant-goer: the hyper-sensitivity to distinguish the quality of one tonkotsu stock from another; the knees to put up with all that queueing at non-reservation places; the sangfroid to pull off mayonnaise dribbling down your arms as you eat by a food truck, as desperate for emergency Kleenex as a 15-year-old boy at bedtime; a plausible enough manner to claim convincingly that no one understands how good genuine Mexican food is, when the closest you’ve been to Tijuana is a budget bottle of tequila from Aldi.

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