The Green Room: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

The Green Room at the National Theatre has much to recommend it, but the food needs to work on its delivery

101 Upper Ground, London SE1 (020 7452 3630). Meal for two: £60

The Green Room, across the road from the back of the National Theatre, is a great opportunity currently being squandered. It is, by any measure, an intriguing venture. The National Theatre is rare among major arts institutions in being located amid a residential community; one nurtured by the Coin Street Community Builders, a social enterprise body which, since 1984, has been instrumental in developing the slab of land on the Thames’s south bank which houses the theatre. It means the National has neighbours. Now, in partnership with the Coin Street Community Builders, the theatre has opened a neighbourhood restaurant. Or attempted to. I’m just not convinced, given what else is available, that the neighbours will be overjoyed to have it in its present state.

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