The Nag’s Head: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

Heavy plates aside, the Nag’s Head makes light work of some English classics. Jay parks his horse and tucks in

Haughton, Cheshire (01829 260 265). Meal for two, including wine and service: £70

All restaurant meals come with a cost. At the Nag’s Head in Haughton, Cheshire, I fear that cost may weigh too heavily upon the staff. There are real health and safety issues, in this case surrounding the matter of plating. I have been served food on slates before – lovely black ones that would look brilliant, say, affixed to houses. I have been served food on wooden boards before – big thick ones that you might wish to use for cutting bread. But never have I been served food on a slate in turn laid upon a 3in-thick wooden board. It’s inappropriate plating squared.

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