The Peat Inn: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

It won Scotland’s first ever Michelin star back in the 80s, and the Peat Inn is showing no sign of losing its glitter

The Peat Inn, near St Andrews, Fife (01334 840 206). Lunch for two: £75-£110. Dinner for two: £140

The Peat Inn is nothing new. It’s so not new, the whole village carries its name. That’s because the inn was here, amid the rolling pastures of Fife, from the mid-1700s, long before anybody thought to live around it. But it’s also another kind of not new. In 1972 a chef called David Wilson came to cook here, bringing good taste, technique and an interest in the area’s produce, when these things were less the minimum qualifying standard they are now than an eccentricity. In the mid-80s he won Scotland’s first Michelin star, at a time when they were one of the few ways of keeping score. The Peat Inn has form.

A tartare of sea bream is all briskness and sea, an oyster mousse sending it all merrily on its way

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