The Pompadour by Galvin: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

A beautiful dining room, stunning food, flawless service and fireworks to finish No wonder Jays in high spirits

Caledonian Hotel, Princes Street, Edinburgh (0131 222 8975). Meal for two, including drinks and service £175

There may be prettier dining rooms than the Pompadour at Edinburghs Caledonian Hotel, but not bloody many. Its a wedding cake of a room, all crisp ceiling rose and cornice and detail. There are delicate hand-painted panels, in sweet eggshell colours against the softest of greys; of spindle branches bursting with flowers and the bird life that might sit upon them. Every table is clothed twice to protect its modesty, and through the half-arched windows the heft of Georgian Edinburgh settles back on its haunches as daylight finally leaks from the sky. Everything here feels careful and considered even the view. At the end of the meal we will be invited to take coffee before a window that presents a perfect point from which to watch the fireworks that explode nightly at this time of year over the castle. If I had been told Edinburgh had been moved slightly to the left to facilitate this, I would have believed it.

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