After the joy of East Pier Smokehouse at St Monans, Jay is all at sea among the well-heeled folk of St Andrews
The Seafood Restaurant, St Andrews, Fife (01334 479 475). Meal for two: £140
Lunchtime on a sparkling autumn day and I am in a Scottish fishing village which is so perfect it looks as if its construction has been overseen by a film production designer with an acute eye for detail. Old stone, whitewashed buildings crowd in along the curving quayside, and in places the road is strewn with seaweed from when the tide last came in. Because here in St Monans, in the East Neuk of Fife, the place where the land ends and the sea begins feels as if it’s negotiable.