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The Seaside Boarding House, Dorset: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

A new coastal enclave in Dorset owes its steady hand and knowing menu to the buzz and clatter of the capital

The Seaside Boarding House, Burton Bradstock, Dorset (01308 897 205). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £80

From the outside the Seaside Boarding House, on the coast just down from the Dorset village of Burton Bradstock, looks very much at ease in its surroundings. It is a solid whitewashed building with big picture windows looking out to sea as if keeping watch. There is a route down to the demerara-hued ribbon of Chesil Beach spooling away eastwards towards Weymouth, and a constant breeze of the sort that would make a child’s kite crack and flap. Just standing on its steps, you sense it as a place in which to decompress from the pressures of city life.

This place is the distillation of more than three decades of the London restaurant world

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