The Talbot: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

You’d have to be a ‘hard-hearted, self-regarding, po-faced schmuck’ not to like the Talbot, says Jay. Praise indeed…

The Talbot, Knightwick, Worcestershire (01886 821 235). Meal for two: £30-£80

Inside a whitewashed pub, at the bottom of a hill close to where Worcestershire meets Herefordshire, is a crumbling piece of English heritage. The fact that it’s crumbling is not a cause for concern. It’s meant to crumble. It’s a hand-raised, hot water-pastry pork and game pie and it’s built to crack and splinter like this. The shell, heavy with animal fats and the colour of an old oak table, breaks away to give access to the compacted meats, punchy with white pepper and mace, and an amber jelly which is long-cooking’s own reward.

Sizeable and properly fried, the chips are not the lazy chunky kind; salads are almost as well dressed as I am

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