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The White Swan: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

You might hesitate on the doorstep of the White Swan, but step inside and you’ll find this is no ugly duckling

300 Wheatley Lane Road, Fence, Lancashire (01282 611 773). Meal for two, with wine and service: £75

Forgive me if, for the next few sentences, I sound like a man tiptoeing through a field of uncracked raw eggs. I don’t want to offend. Or to be precise, I’m very happy to offend but only with good reason. Right now I don’t have one. So when I say Fence in Lancashire is not the kind of place where I’d expect to find food of the quality currently being served at the White Swan pub, that’s all I mean.

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