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Toto’s: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

Hidden at the end of a quiet mews, Toto’s is an oasis of calm. It’s also home to some inspired cooking

Lennox Garden Mews, London SW3 (020 7589 2062). Meal for two, with drinks and service: £150

A warm summer’s day in the capital and Toto’s has a trick up its sleeve. We could sit inside in the shadow of the huge, glowering Belgian fireplace, alleged to have been owned once by Churchill. It’s a nice enough space, this dining room, with the high white vault of the chapel it once was and the restrained flashes of gold and the hush. But who wants to be in here on a day like this? For out there is a walled courtyard, a still space in Knightsbridge, where the world is paused and the thick linen dampens the sound. There is chilled prosecco poured into misted glasses, and nibbles of thin crisped bread sandwiching folds of mortadella, and waiters so pretty they could make a living simply by being looked at.

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