An overcomplicated concept mars an otherwise sound scheme for an urban restaurant serving Italian classics
Vico, 1 Cambridge Circus, London WC2. No booking. Meal for two including drinks: £25-£45
The site on London’s Cambridge Circus now occupied by Vico used to house a branch of Pizza Hut. I went there once in the name of research to eat a 12in pizza with mini-cheeseburgers around the rim, and to hate myself. During my various visits to Vico over its first couple of months – it had a lengthy 50% off soft opening I couldn’t write about – I found comfort in the thought that at least it isn’t still a Pizza Hut. This is about as damning with faint praise as it’s possible to get. Because right now Vico isn’t working.