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Wheatsheaf Inn: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

With its fuss-free menu, decadent puddings and gentle buzz, the Wheatsheaf is doing Britain proud

Northleach, near Cheltenham, Gloucestershire (01451 860 244). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £90

Nobody needs dessert. Normal people don’t run into restaurants at lunch or dinner shouting: “I’m famished! Bring me the dessert menu!” They might want to, but they don’t. People might stare and point. So they choose a main or a starter. Of course we have all had emergency cake moments: mid-afternoon, when we are furious with the world, or the world is furious with us; when the only medicine for our mood is a juggernaut of sugar. But nice is not the same as necessary.

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