Wormwood: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

Rabah Ourrad is a musician turned chef – and at Wormwood his unusual and delicious menu has a beat all of its own

16 All Saint’s Road, London W11 (020 7854 1808). Meal for two, including wine and service: £150

Occasionally a plate of food comes along that forces me to pause. The sound of chatter fades. The light around the crockery seems to dim. I focus. Yup, I’m really that sad. So it is with the lobster couscous at Wormwood in London’s Notting Hill. Usually I am suspicious of dishes built around luxury ingredients. The great Shaun Hill once told me the luxury trinity of lobster, truffles and foie gras can be a tedious straitjacket for a chef. While this falls deep into the “my diamond pumps are pinching” category of life’s troubles, I understand what he means. Just as a Tom Cruise movie is all about Tom Cruise, a lobster dish is all about the lobster.

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